Azamara Quest
Stepping-Up Luxury and Personal Attention
by: Robert Ives

Let's be clear: I am not your seasoned cruiser. My last cruising experience was in the mid-sixties on the then aging but still-elegant S.S. Lurline of the now-defunct Matson Lines, transiting the Pacific from Honolulu to San Francisco. That was cruising in the old style: coin divers in the waters beneath the Aloha Tower, billowing pastel paper streamers draping from deck to dock, leis piled high about the necks of the departing travelers, and the Hawaiian Band playing strains of "Aloha Oe."

After the tears dried we retired to a cabin with rivets in the wall, fold down cots, and a single porthole so small even my eleven-year-old frame could never pass through. So, when the opportunity arose to take my wife on a fourteen-day, ten-city cruise around Italy and Croatia, I had little notion of what to expect. Suffice it to say, much about cruise travel has changed in forty years.

We booked our Mediterranean dream cruise on the Azamara Quest. Freshly refurbished in October 2007, this gleaming vessel measures approximately 600 feet, carries 500 to 700 passengers in great comfort, and offers a more luxurious alternative to the "lost in the crowd" experience of other mega-sized cruise vessels.

Azamara Cruise Line touts stepped-up luxury and greater personal attention. Our standard cabin proved to be very comfortable for our two-week "Best of Italy" cruise. The stateroom boasted a queen-size bed, flat-screen television, loveseat, desk, and two closets. Perhaps the nicest amenity here was the outside balcony with sliding door, patio table, and chairs. Many lovely sunsets and starry evenings were enjoyed on this patio overlooking the sea.

Our itinerary was fantastic. Upon departing from Rome's nearby port, Civitavecchia, we spent the first full day at sea. The crossing was lovely, with smooth seas, light winds, and clear skies the whole way.

Passing between the toe of the boot and the island of Sicily, we reached the first port in the city of Bari on the morning of day two. Let me just say here, this cruising is a great way to travel. You cover hundreds of miles during the evening and arrive at a spectacular new coastal city early the following day. But you never unpack, carry bags, rush to make connections, or stress over what to expect of your next day's accommodations or dining. Just draw open the drapes of the cabin each morning and gaze out upon a new, romantic port city guaranteed to take your breath away.

Azamara Cruises offered several shore excursions in each port of call. These trips provide interesting, varied choices of things to do and see at each stop. If you prefer to go it alone, you can just wing it and take your own spontaneous tour each day. Being independent by nature, we elected to do things on our own. At no charge, or for a small fee, the cruise line provided shuttle buses to get passengers from the boat to a central point in each city. Armed with a complimentary sightseeing map and general plan, each day was an adventure of discovery.

Our second destination was across the Adriatic Sea on the Dalmatian Coast: the city of Split in Croatia. This historic city is visually stunning, with alabaster churches, white marble promenades, and ancient ruins. The route in and out was also wondrously scenic, weaving through a maze of beautiful, deserted islands.

The next two days we spent in beautiful Venice. There is no more dramatic way to enter this water-bound city than cruising directly up the Grand Canal and viewing the gondoliers and St. Mark's Square from the eleventh deck, two hundred feet above sea level. This city lived up to the hype. The post-card scenery of the canals, art museums, churches, food, shopping, sightseeing, and people-watching were all about as good as it gets. The challenge is trying to do it all and see it all in two days. Romance is not in short supply, with the lights of both the ship and the mythical city of Venice coming up in the evening. Each night our personal butler set out fresh flowers in the room along with a lovely bowl of fresh fruit and chocolates.

The next port was Ravenna, noted for its brilliant mosaics and ornate cathedrals. But we decided to take the day off, never even leaving the luxury of the boat. On this ship, taking a day off on board is pretty special. The foredeck offered a full-service spa with salt-water hot tub, steam baths, and quiet sundeck. There was a very well equipped workout area and a roomy pool and bar. Dining on the Azamara Quest was a special treat.

The food was always excellent, and complimentary room service was available 24-7. There were many alternatives when dining outside our cabin, from the informal all-you-can-eat buffet to elegant evening dining in the main hall. The cruise also offered dining for a small additional charge in either of two excellent exclusive restaurants on board. After recharging our energy for a day, we were looking forward to exploring the fabled island of Sicily.

Taormina is nestled on the eastern shore of the island of Sicily in a scenic, scalloped bay. It lies on the flanks of Mount Etna, an active volcano that puffed a cloud of white smoke into a clear sky. The main part of the town is built on a cliff about 1,000 feet above the water. As we approached this fortress-like town from the sea, it was not hard to imagine that this coast looked much the same hundreds of years ago to seafaring merchants and marauders. We decided to take a more daring approach to see this town: we rented a scooter. Soon we were buzzing up the island's steep roads and through the town's narrow streets. As with many Mediterranean villages, the heart of Taormina is closed to motorized vehicles, allowing only pedestrian traffic. All streets and alleys were picturesque, offering great restaurants and shopping. All too soon, we were back on the boat and weighing anchor for another port.

We cruised westward through the Straights of Messina, making a smooth overnight passage to lovely Sorrento. We spent two days in this gorgeous corner of Italy. We started out on a high-speed ferry to the Isle of Capri, where we again rented a scooter. A Vespa is really the perfect way to see this island, if you have the heart to try it. The Rent-a-Scooter shop in the harbor provided a detailed map with a tried- and-true sequence of sights. If followed carefully, this circuit assures the determined traveler will see the entire island in a day. The self-guided tour included a chair lift to the highest point of the island, the summit of Mount Solaris. A lovely restaurant at the peak offers views and libations beyond compare. The tour continues with a dreamlike boat ride into an eerily lighted watery cave - the Blue Grotto -- trekking through the quaint towns of Capri and Anacapri, and swimming in the Tyrrhenian Sea at the foot of a picturesque lighthouse. We reluctantly embarked on a return ferry in the late afternoon and spent that evening exploring the very cosmopolitan city of Sorrento.

The next day we were off to the Amalfi Coast. This breathtaking stretch of coastline is rivaled in all the world only by California's US-1 and the coast of Big Sur. The serpentine road that winds wildly along the sheer cliffs was carved out of solid rock centuries ago by Roman slaves. Because of the demanding nature of the road, we hired a comfortable taxi for the day. We enjoyed an instructive and entertaining tour by an engaging young driver fluent in English: Antonino Fiorentino (toninodriver@yahoo.it). Should you ever visit Amalfi, I can recommend his services. On the other hand, I would not recommend that you attempt to drive the narrow precipitous road. You do not want to be dodging tour buses while trying to enjoy the spectacular views. We stopped off briefly in posh Positano and then amazing Amalfi, topping off the day at a restaurant perched high up on the cliffs. This memorable excursion ended with a spectacular sunset viewed from the aft deck of the Azamara Quest as we departed Sorrento.

That night we sailed west across the Tyrrhenian Sea to the island of Sardinia, arriving in the harbor of Oblia at first light. This is a nice little town, but the true gems are the towns and islands that lie an hour by car to the north, along Costa Esmeralda: the Emerald Coast. To reach these destinations, with the freedom to explore a bit, we rented a small car. Following a scenic windy road up the coast, the first town of significance was Puerto Cervo. It is a small, elite coastal resort of yachties and vacationers, enjoying white sand beaches and warm Mediterranean waters. Further north, in an area perhaps most reminiscent of Cabo San Lucas, is another swanky retreat, the harbor village of Palau. Here one can shop and dine, then roll right onto an auto ferry that whisks you across a narrow straight to the Isle of Maddelena. There you drive onto a verdant island connected by bridge to yet another island and more beautiful beaches and rocky bays. As the day waned to afternoon, we returned to the main island and drove inland, passing through pastures and farmlands on our way back to the ship. There we enjoyed another lovely sunset dinner and slumbered through yet another smooth night passage, this time en route to timeless Florence.

Dawn of our twelfth day found the ship docked in Livorno, a bustling port town about twenty minutes by train from Pisa and an hour and a half from Florence. We headed straight for Florence, and what a treat. The sights are all close to one another and the streets are bright and inviting.

We were able to see Michelangelo's "David" and other great sculptures at the Accademia, tour the Duomo, stroll along the Arno River, cross the Ponte Vecchio, and dine at the Piazza della Signoria in a short and enjoyable day on foot. All good things come to an end, and we departed from Florence Airport the next day. The Azamara Quest, however, continued on to Rome's port of Citiavecchia to complete its "Best of Italy" circuit in fourteen glorious days.

I can say without a second thought that anyone, and any family, would love this cruise. The staff, facilities, and service were first rate, and every person on board gave us the sincere impression they were committed to our having the time of your life. I am pleased to say the elegance, pampering, and gentility of the halcyon days of cruising are alive and well on Azamara Cruises.

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