Casa Tropicana
All Roads Lead to the Pier in San Clemente
By Ramona Goodheart

Beyond the shimmering lights of Newport and Laguna, in the village of San Clemente you'll find an unpretentious little inn by the sea, The Casa Tropicana-just the place for that view and glass of wine. Five stories high, with verandahs open to the wide reach of the Pacific, Casa Tropicana, like San Clemente itself, is quietly stylish and uniquely situated.

Once settled, you may want to linger at "the Trop," so nicely appointed as it is, and light filled and comfortable; but San Clemente beckons, its surprising corners awaiting discovery. So out you go, descending the stairs to beach level. The pier is just across the way. Walk to the end; regard the view out to Catalina Island, the bluffs to the south lining the beach all the way to Trestles (the famed surf break) and the bold headland at Dana Point to the north. Rising before you, directly inland, is the aptly named "Spanish Village by the Sea," San Clemente, its cottages and houses trimmed in white stucco and red tile.

Since all roads lead to the pier in San Clemente, don't be afraid to explore-the neighborhoods can be as surprising as the boutiques and restaurants of Avenida Del Mar, the downtown area. The key to finding peace and harmony while on holiday is getting a sense of where you are in the world. Talk to the locals, ask them about this place, ask them why they've chosen to live here. In the midst of the whirl of life in Orange County, San Clemente offers a respite. It's a clever little city whose secrets don't require shrill announcements, the pleasures here are simple: beachcombing, a custom-blended tea from Lavender Lounge Tea Company while sitting under an olive tree on a sidewalk bench. When the holidays come around the downtown businesses host "Puttin' on the Glitz," with local families, musicians, carolers and horse-drawn carriages promenading the main drag. Bobo and his flamenco guitar croon while you savor dinner at Tony and Mary Carbonara's place.

Now, the evening lingers in San Clemente, the darkness here warmed by lights-from the street, from the pier, wavering on the water like brush strokes. Back at the Trop you might well sit together on the verandah, taking in the pier view as it is crossed by a moonglade, enjoying another glass of wine, perhaps tea. Though you'll enjoy the seclusion of your darkened overlook, eventually you'll retire and the most sumptuous bed awaits . . .the train rattles by, more lights, a lonely whistle . time for sleep. And while you sleep, the waves, one after another, wash shoreward, the sound, a quiet serenade.

Morning glows into fullness. The palms along Avenida Victoria in front of Casa Tropicana, all reach to different heights and the effect is pleasing, a jumbled arrangement that achieves a unity. Coffee, the verandah again; your breakfast made to order. My selection, Rick's Rancheros, is but one of the tempting morning options. The place has all the stuff - high speed wireless, flat-screen TVs, fireplaces, big, big Jacuzzi bathtubs - without being stuffy. Perhaps it was just an overnight (you can probably make arrangements to stay another night) and the time to leave eventually comes. But even

with just a day in San Clemente, the spell of this place can catch you. You'll move through the day more slowly, taking in the quality of the light. But the road, always the road, leads you on; and merging back into the flow of the Interstate you'll think what an interesting little gem of a town, what a lovely stay. Who would' ve imagined that the gas station signs and the humble off-ramp of Avenida Palizada would form a gateway to such an environment?

Casa Tropicana
610 Avenida Victoria
San Clemente, California
949/492-1234
www.casatropicana.com

(South Coast Magazine - Winter 2006)